UNIQUE JEWELLED GILT SILVER BROOCH. Transylvania, probably 17th century.

Recto: A domed circular silver fom; ring border bears applique cast animals including bird with chick, and chasing, recumbent and sleeping dogs. At center, an applique ring of domed filigree bosses with alternating cast ornaments; at inner border, gems and colored stones; at center, similar smaller element and raised central red stone in bezel. Verso: A silver clip, ornamented with twisted wire, attached by rivets; interior of ring border engraved with two Hebrew inscriptions, “Myrrh and aloes, all the choice perfumes” (Song of Songs 4:14) and “Yocheved (?) Grabtuch.” Unidentified mark on clip. Diam: 130mm x H: 50mm. Some wear.

This fascinating object was of the type with which prosperous Hungarian women kept their cloaks fastened; similar jewels can be seen in 15th and 16th century Italian and Flemish paintings. For other examples, see The Bard Decorative Arts Center Catalogue, Baroque Splendor: The Art of the Hungarian Goldsmith (1994) nos. 120-121 and 131-2, and see M. Gerlach, Primitive and Folk Jewelry (1971) pl. 6, no. 6. Concerning the Hebrew inscriptions on the verso, it has been suggested a Jewish moneylender retained the object due to a defaulted loan and then had inscriptions added. According to Prof. Shalom Sabar, the method of Hebrew engraving on this brooch strongly hints of the 18th century Judaica. “Even more typical of an Aschkenazi hand … are. the letters… smaller inscription. It is evident, therefore, that the Hebrew inscriptions of this brooch are genuine and…engraved after the object itself was produced, most probably around 1750.” See Stieglitz, pp.199, 207-9 and pl.210.